Life in rural Cape Verde is gradual and relaxed. On the weekends, Cape Verdean individuals relocate to their household farm to are inclined to their land. Others start the arduous technique of pounding dried corn to make the nationwide dish catchupa. The commonest exercise among the many younger and aged alike is to passia.
Visitor submit by Cecilia from lovicarious.com.
Understanding “Passia” in Cape Verdean Culture
What exactly is “passia”? Essentially, it’s the local practice of leisurely spending time in public spaces. This could involve sitting on your front steps for an extended period, watching to see who else might be engaging in “passia,” or taking an unhurried stroll down the main road, making sure to greet everyone you pass with a warm smile and “Bom dia, tudo bom?” which translates to “Good morning, all is well?”
The aim of this activity isn’t to achieve anything specific; rather, it’s a way to pass the time while observing other Cape Verdeans and exchanging pleasantries. When something more captivating comes along, that signals the end of your “passia” session.
On an early Sunday, I felt the day was ripe for some “passia.” With a book in hand, I began my leisurely walk down the main road into the heart of the town. As I moved along the cobblestoned street, I exchanged greetings with the people I met: Ye, who was sitting in front of her home braiding her granddaughter’s hair; Antonio, who was stepping out of Nelson’s market to kick off his day with a shot of grog; and a group of young girls, exiting the community well with buckets of water expertly balanced atop their heads. Finally, I settled on a shaded ledge near the local health post, or “posto sanitario.”
There, I propped up my feet and delved into George Orwell’s “Nineteen Eighty-Four.” Every so often, I’d lift my gaze from the pages to take in the local atmosphere. In the distance, I could hear someone calling out “Cavala, Cavala” (mackerel). Turning the corner came Chida, driving his vintage red 1980 pickup truck.
An Unexpected Adventure in Rural Cape Verde
Chida is the area’s go-to fish seller. Every morning, he drives to Porto Novo, the main city and harbor of San Antao, to pick up fresh fish that have just been caught. He then makes his rounds, going from village to village to sell mackerel and tuna from a large cooler in the back of his truck.
As he spots me sitting by the roadside, he calls out,
“Hey Cecilia, good morning! What are you up to?”
I respond, “Good morning! Just enjoying some passia.”
He says, “Well, hop in!”
Not usually one for spur-of-the-moment plans, I bookmark my page and jump into the co-pilot seat. Off we go to an unknown destination; I have no idea where, but now I’m along for the adventure.
Air conditioning isn’t a feature in many Cape Verdean vehicles, and this truck is no exception. We roll down the windows, letting in a refreshing summer breeze, along with a sprinkling of fine dust and other small particles. Each cobblestone and pothole on the road makes its presence felt, creating rhythmic thuds and abrupt jolts.
Life as a Fishmonger’s Sidekick
We wind through mountainous terrain and along riversides, passing through tiny hamlets I’ve never seen before, places that don’t even show up on maps. As we drive, we both shout out the window, “Cavala, the best fish in the world!”
During our journey, we make pit stops at roadside stands and local markets to distribute portions of fish to local sellers. Inside the marketplace, we often indulge in a quick shot of Strawberry Ponche, a creamy liqueur made from sugarcane rum, condensed milk, and synthetic strawberry essence. It looks and feels similar to Pepto-Bismol, but its taste is pleasantly sweet. As we prepare to continue on, it’s not uncommon for someone to hop onto the back of the truck, seeking a lift to the next village.
Lunch on the highway
It was midday once we approached a small village of three or 4 thatched-roof properties. Free-range chickens scattered throughout the road as a herd of goats bleated politely. This was our lunch cease. Chida pulled 3 fish from the cooler which we promptly fried as much as get pleasure from with our bowl of Cachupa. Our host handled us to contemporary goat cheese for dessert. Contemporary cheese is not like something I’ve tasted earlier than. The slight sweetness of the cream is counterbalanced with a sprinkling of coarse salt exploding within the mouth with taste. Unbelievable!
Ending a Cape Verdean day of journey
We continued on our method, rounding out our journey by 2 PM. Pulling as much as my door in Ribeira das Patas, Chida left me with a bag of fish in gratitude for my laborious work as a Fishmonger apprentice. I, after all, was simply grateful for the expertise, however I wouldn’t say no to contemporary mackerel. I walked inside lined in mud, smelling of fish, and satiated from a day’s price of journey.
They are saying that it’s not simply sight, but in addition scents and sounds which are tied to reminiscences. Today with Chida engaged all my senses culminating in a novel journey reminiscence that can stick with me at all times, the day I hitchhiked with Cape Verdean Folks.
Concerning the writer:
Cecilia is a Washington DC-based journey author motivated by cultural experiences, human connection, and a thirst for journey. Collectively along with her husband Scott, they run an journey journey web site sharing off-the-grid journey locations, journey ideas, and galvanizing journey tales. Comply with their international adventures on Lovicarious.com, or on social media @lovicarious.
Concerned with island life? Discover out the best things to do in Lanzarote!